Great Australian Walks
with Julia Zemiro

On Episode 2 of Great Australian Walks, Julia visits Bellingen and Dangar Falls and walks the Wonga Walk at Dorigo National Park. I’ll offer some route options below, but I can’t offer you the same fascinating walking companions Julia meets on her walks. To get to know them, you’ll have to watch the show.

Tumbling 30 metres from a basalt platform into a crystal-clear pool, its backdrop a lush patchwork of diverse sub-tropical vegetation and moss-carpeted basalt, Dangar Falls is the quintessential rainforest waterfall. You won’t be surrounded by Dorrigo National Park’s lush vegetation on the Dangar Falls Walk, but you’ll forget where you are after a few minutes on the trail.

Although the hardcore hikers among you may dismiss Dangar Falls – “not much of a walk, though, is it?” – this is a quick stop that you’ll be glad you delayed your hike for. Or, if you’re stopping off after your hike, you’ll appreciate the opportunity to cool off with a swim in the Bielsdown River at the base of the falls.

Since it’s located only 2 kilometres from Dorrigo and part of the famous Waterfall Way, Dangar Falls is a popular spot for swimming, but don’t let that deter you. The pool at the base of the falls is big enough for everyone. You can even swim behind the falls but be careful – the force of the drop can be fierce, especially after rain.

A viewing platform near the carpark offers a nice view of the picture-perfect falls, especially for those less mobile, but a short stroll through the picnic area – just follow the sound of the roaring cascade – leads to a short but picturesque 550-metre trail to the base of the falls. The final descent can be slippery, so be careful and hold on to the chain-link fence if you need to. Once at the water’s edge, you’ll feel the raw power of this natural spectacle.

Once you’ve dried off, brace yourself for the brief but steep ascent out of the gorge. It’s a workout but suitable for kids and moderately fit and agile adults. Keep an ear out for the kookaburras laughing at you as you struggle.

Note: There have been some tragic deaths at Dangar Falls due to people jumping from their cliffs. As fun as it looks, it doesn’t seem terribly wise.

While the quick-stop waterfalls along Waterfall Way are not to be missed, you haven’t really experienced Dorrigo National Park until you’ve left the car behind and disappeared into the heart of the Northern Tablelands’ ancient rainforests, where every step along the winding trails feels like a delicate waltz with time itself – a fleeting glimpse into our planet’s heritage.

Before you set off from the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre, the Skywalk lookout is a must-visit, jutting out over the rainforest canopy. On a clear day, it offers views over the park’s vast forested hills and valleys, but at worst, you’ll feel like you’re standing on the clouds.

Start the Wonga Walk on Lyrebird, and you’ll immediately get a sense of how old this place is – tree trunks with unimaginable girth, moss and lichen on almost every surface, strangler figs like something from a fairytale.

The calls of hidden birds, relics of a primordial era, echo like forgotten songs. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a glimpse of the Superb lyrebird foraging in the undergrowth – or, if you’re really lucky, it might put on a display of feathers and strange mimicry. In places like Dorrigo National Park, a moment of magical serendipity might lie around every bend in the trail. 

If you’re dying to see Crystal Shower Falls but would prefer a shorter less strenuous adventure, the Crystal Shower Falls Walk is your answer.

Take a shortcut to the falls, shaving off a couple of kilometres, by starting from The Glade Picnic Area and heading south on the Wonga Walk.

You won’t see as much of this ancient place as on the Wonga Walk, and you’ll have to return to the trailhead along the same path, but you’ll cut your walking time down to 1.5 hours.

This is the obvious choice for less fit and agile nature lovers who still want to experience one of undisputed highlights of Dorrigo National Park.

Need to know

Length: 4.4 km
Time: 2 hrs
Grade: Easy / Grade 2 (according to the Australian Walking Track Grading System).
Style: Return
Access: From the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre (see the Wonga Walk directions above), follow the signs to The Glade Picnic Area – south on Lyrebird Lane.